Hello there 🙂
If you're something like me, you've spent years trying to figure out what your natural hair wants and needs. When I was younger my mother took care of my hair, which was usually associated with twist-outs, the occasional hot comb or a day off from school to go to the cornrows salon or pigtails (a rite of passage for every black girl at the time). When I got to high school, I asked her for a perm, which led to a continuous cycle of dyeing, frying, and cutting my extra thick 4c hair on numerous occasions before I fully engaged in it in its natural state.
My hair travel is common for many colored women. Be natural or simply maintaining the natural texture of your hair is a process (as it should be). No matter where you are on your trip, we can all use a little guide, and that's where a professional hairdresser comes in. You will hear from Marjorie Lightford – a prominent hairdresser from the agency behind our February cover star Issa Rae – about everything Misunderstandings about black hair to the different types of texture and tips for the transition of your hair. But first a little bit about her …
For those unfamiliar with texture management, you can explain a little the company and how do you fit in with it?
Texture Management was founded to meet the need for world-class hair and make-up services tailored to the specific needs of color cast members. I am one of her hair artists specializing in hair color (certified by Redken). In this way, I can provide any hairstyle (such as braids, cuts, wigs or straightening) that the customer needs to complete the look from head to toe. Through texture management, I styled hair for spec shoots, beauty shoots, red carpets, awards ceremonies and more.
Most people outside the black community have little to no education about black hair. What do you think is one of the biggest misunderstandings and implicit prejudices of a wider society?
Frankly, I think most people outside of their own community have little to no hair training. I think the bigger problem is that people don't understand curly hair and how fragile some textures are within the curly community, regardless of race. In general, curly hair is the driest of all hair textures and needs constant love and nourishment. Curly hair thrives with natural oils and doesn't need to be shampooed and manipulated daily. As a result, when styling curly hair, especially tighter textures, the styles should be preserved for more than a day.
What do you think are the biggest misunderstandings that black people have yourself over your own hair?
People of all races need to evaluate their hair and learn which products work best. For example, a voluminous shampoo is something that is not often used in the black community. However, if you have oily hair that needs to be shampooed twice a week because your hair is losing style and falling flat, a voluminous shampoo can do the trick. People with curly hair often choose a straightening shampoo or a moisturizing shampoo, which can make some curly textures flat and lifeless.
How would you say has the industry evolved over the past 10 years? natural hair? Do you think Hollywood and the fashion industry are increasingly accepting this?
In the past 10 years relaxers have been disadvantaged in the black community. Others suspected less harmful chemicals, such as the keratin treatments, took their place. It was only when we learned about formaldehyde that customers and stylists started to withdraw from keratin treatments. That was the beginning of chemistry-free madness. Everyone wanted to be natural, but still straighten their hair. The problem was that most people's hair wouldn't stick through moisture or movement. Of course, when they had to shampoo it, they didn't know what to do about styling. Her hair had uneven textures and was difficult to handle. From there, the “Big Chop” phase began, in which all endangered ends were removed, the texture of which was not natural.
For those who opt out of the large pork chop, “protective styles” were chosen that allowed them to grow their hair out and gradually remove endings that were at risk. Nowadays, most people in the black community avoid using chemical flat irons, but still struggle to maintain their natural hair. As a result, wigs, weft extensions, and lace closures have seen huge increases in our community.
"To really care for your natural hair, it has to become a lifestyle," says Lightford. This applies to so many colored women who may not know where to start if they decide to take care of their hair health, regardless of whether they are type 3a or 4c. Below is a guide to the key terms, products, and tools for hair care you need to know, regardless of what stage you're in on your hair journey.
Can you explain the difference between the different porosities in hair care?
porosityIn terms of hair, refers to how well your hair can absorb and hold moisture. There are three categories: low, normal and high.
Low porosity The hair has a tight cuticle and is resistant to water and moisture. It does not move in easily. A tip: Use alkaline products on damp hair.
Normal porosity means that your hair has no challenge in absorbing or holding moisture seem to be. However, excessive heat styling and the use of other chemicals on the hair can alter normal porosity.
High porosity Hair is like a couple of holes in your hair. While your hair is easily absorbed Moisture can make it lose moisture just as quickly. Protein treatments and apple cider vinegar work very well to fill the gaps and holes in the cuticle layer of the hair.
How would you describe the texture types 3a to 4c and are there products that can do this? Make management easier?
3a: Loopy "S" curls that are large and loose. To define the hair, twist it wet around your finger and let it dry.
3b: Springer curls, the size of a felt pen. They also have shrinkage and tend to have a coarser texture. Products that protect against moisture and frizz work great.
3c: combination of curly and curly strands that are tightly wrapped and shrink the most outside of level 3. They are usually very dense strands and their coils are bulky and dense.
4a: Dense, springy turns with the circumference of a crochet hook. Use thicker natural ones Products like shea butter.
4b: The curl is tighter and less defined – around the circumference of a pin – with strands that range from fine and thin to wiry and coarse. Pretreat with coconut oil before washing.
4c: Similar to 4b, but denser. Less defined and more shrinkage. Strands can be fine, thin, and soft to wiry and coarse. It is very fragile. Use a creamy leave-in to make it easier to distribute other styling products.
Although perms seem to be a thing of the past, there are still black women who prefer this to natural hair. Can you tell us what to expect when you visit? Appointment and how do you maintain the health of your hair after the treatment?
Getting a chemical relaxant in 2020 is like eating in a fast food chain that has been around for years. Most people choose not to do it, and when they come back to it, their bodies don't respond well. They don't do relaxers like they used to. Companies have chosen cheaper ingredients that are often more harmful. When choosing a chemical relaxant, it is important to see someone who does a lot of them and who needs to have low conditions on a regular basis. I would also find an experienced stylist who has been making hair since the 90s or early 2000s.
How would you define what a style of protection is?
A protective style is everything that wraps your hair and seals your ends and can be kept for at least two weeks. One of the best things to do before getting a protective style is a haircut that removes all or most of your split ends. This way, when the protective style is removed, your hair will have length and fullness from the roots to the ends.
Cornrows are the result of a three-strand braid in which hair is added to each strand afterwards Completion of a rotation sequence. The result is a raised braid that is usually very close to the scalp.
A sewing in results from the braiding of your natural hair in the cornrow style and the hand sewing of weft extensions over the braids.
Jumbo Twists are large sections of hair that are split and wrapped in two strands in the same direction.
Faux locs are instaby twisting or braiding the real hair and then wrapping additional hair around the shaft of the braid / twisting.
Box braids are single braids that are usually divided by small, square pieces. or boxes and provided with extension hair to ensure protection, length and durability of the style.
What you need to create a combed bun or pony: Fonex Hair Gummy and Black Panther Edge Control.
What you need for an afro: Pureology Color Fanatic 21 Spray.
What you need for a healthy blowout:: Kérastase Anti-Frizz Oil Serum, Kérastase Discipline Blow-Dry Smoothing Primer and Kérastase Resistance Serum.
What you need for a twist-out: Aunt Jackie's Moisturizing Moisturizer, Aunt Jackie's Argan Oil and Eco Styler Gel.
What you need for edges and baby hair: Fonex Hair Gummy and Black Panther Edge Control.
Many women are product lovers nowadays when it comes to their natural hair, but I have learned through trial and error that the tools you use are as important as the products you use, regardless of whether your goal is to do so to maintain the length or just get a healthy head of hair. These are the tools you need.
What tips would you give women who are thinking of moving to their natural texture? do you give them?
If you are considering switching to its natural texture, you should contact a natural hair specialist. The transition is different for everyone. Do not compare your experiences with those of others and vice versa. Find out what works for you.
How do you hope through your work that it will help to change not only black hair care, but also the way black hair is perceived?
I want my work to show that healthy hair is good hair. It's not about the texture or the diameter of your curls, but about giving each head of hair what it needs to be successful. Curly hair is limitless and I want to demonstrate its versatility by bringing a variety of color, cutting, and styling techniques that are rarely found on curly textures. Curly hair is really multi-dimensional and doesn't need to be changed (structured) to fit in. It's beautiful the way it is.
Next: Meet the hairdressers who are redefining natural hair in Hollywood
