Hello there 🙂
In honor of Black History Month, we decided to launch an editorial initiative, Next Gen, to highlight creatives who are transforming the fashion industry. Our intention with this series is to delve deeper into people and continue to shape all facets of the fashion industry.
I think it's safe to say that fashion has anticipated systemic racism in recent years. Much light has been shed on the antiquated tropes, tokenization, and cultural appropriation that are littered the industry, and there has been a lot of conversation about what needs to be done to create a fairer environment across all facets of the industry. Fashion designers, and especially those who have started their own brands, are able to make real change because they have the unique ability to tell their own stories and do so on their own terms. Being a brand owner not only means designing the products, but also playing the casting director, production manager, marketer and many more roles.
As we near the end of Black History Month, you will likely see many versions of Black-Owned Brands to Support Now and Forever or similar lists on the internet. While the intentions behind them are certainly pure, they gloss over these creatives and the kind of work they put in to make progress in an industry that has held onto the status quo for far too long.
A big part of my job as a digital fashion editor is getting to know dozens of new brands all the time, but instead of just ripping off a list of labels I think you should know about, I wanted to initiate a deeper conversation with some of them The coolest up-and-coming black fashion designers right now: the creatives behind the brands EDAS, Brandon Blackwood, Chelsea Paris and Asata Maisé. Not only should we "support them now and forever," but also listen to what they have to say, take diligent notes, and view them as new standards. Do you want to know what the future of fashion looks like? Whether it's a sustainable made-to-order business model, increased adoption of upcycled clothing, or a handbag that literally says to end systemic racism, I suggest you start with these four brands.
In recent years, fashion has expected systemic racism. How can the industry as a whole move past a performative ally?
I think industry really needs to turn away from the effects of capitalism first. As good brother Malcolm X said, "Without racism, you can't have capitalism," to really make changes that go beyond the diversity and inclusion programs and that change more radically than hiring a black COO, I think we really need to watch capitalism keep this industry alive. We (I say we because I am not exempt from this work, because I am a black woman) should deal with the law of supply and demand, consumerism and the fashion calendar.
We have to burn the house down and rebuild it. And to be honest, I'm not sure the industry is ready for it. However, I think that bringing people of color to power is a step in the right direction as it will open the doors for dialogue on how we can tackle some of the superficial issues on an equal footing.
In recent years, fashion has expected systemic racism. How can the industry as a whole move past a performative ally?
To me, real inclusivity means engaging with different types of people. Hire a team that is diverse and colorful. To the EDAS It means selling a $ 40 earring and still having the option to buy a $ 500 bag. I think the industry has shaped this layout of having a variety of price ranges taboo, but I am able to take that risk if it means I can talk to everyone. It can be done well in my opinion.
Style and beauty can be an instrument of survival for the Black Community. What role do you think fashion has played in your life?
As mentioned before, it is literally a form of expression and introduces who we are before we even open our mouths. My afro is considered radical and I love that. I love that I can step into a room on my heels and get your attention. I like the fit of my jeans and the fact that my red nails set the tone of what kind of woman I am. It doesn't define me, but it's definitely a language of its own. I've always felt that my clothes required that I be respected. Fashion is important here. It's a form of storytelling.
What advice would you give to an aspiring black creative looking to get into the fashion industry, especially potential designers?
To be authentic to you. Never settle for less than you deserve and be your biggest fan. You always have to make yourself big. I'm still learning this, so I see the value in having that confidence to keep going even when it's difficult. As blacks, we are always faced with “something” so you need to truly honor yourself and know your worth and contribution to this industry and the world on your journey. They need us, we keep the shit cool.
If you could only buy one item from your line, which would it be and why?
Hmm I would say Maria at midnight! It's the bag that I want to see every day. It's mature and sexy and it's easy.
In recent years, fashion has expected systemic racism. How can the industry as a whole move past a performative ally?
We all need to do the work, ask the tough questions and learn from past mistakes. It's not something that will happen overnight, but awareness and action are certainly the first steps. We need to invest in black communities – they are bursting with creativity and are home to the next generation of black designers, artists and entrepreneurs.
Style and beauty can be an instrument of survival for the Black Community. What role do you think fashion has played in your life?
Fashion has played a big role in my life. Years of experimenting with trends have allowed me to discover and express my authentic self. Whether you're pairing heels and pajamas at a grocery store, or wearing a bucket hat and flirty dress while lounging around the house, my fashion choices definitely reflect my mood. The playful and adventurous handling of my personal style gave me the courage and the confidence to live my truth, regardless of what someone thinks.
Much of the cultural zeitgeist – from style to beauty to slang – comes from the Black Community. What do you think of appreciating appropriation?
The black community is incredibly talented and often turns to fashion and beauty as a means of self-expression. Black creatives have created new spaces in media and society that promote free spirit throughout the community. It is of course curious about someone else's culture. but too often appropriation undermines admiration. I think we can lift one another up from a place of real love and support without taking advantage of others for personal interest. I would love to see more people sincerely take the time to understand, celebrate, and appreciate black creativity.
Fashion and beauty are their own forms of storytelling – the entire industry has long been telling stories that focus on white and Eurocentric beauty traits. What story do you hope to see in your work?
I hope the brand shows others true diversity in fashion and beauty, but also that design can have many components and complexities; Chelsea Paris, of course, honors my Nigerian heritage, but I'm also a trained luxury shoe designer and history buff, so Art Deco design and architecture is always a point of reference for me too.
What advice would you give to an aspiring black creative looking to get into the fashion industry, especially potential designers?
Finding a place in any industry can be a challenge. Know your craft incredibly well and do internships to solidify your experience. Diversify your knowledge; Working with other fashion houses and brands can help develop a full understanding of the business of creativity. When you're ready to launch your own brand, be brave and trust your instincts!
What was your biggest "I did it" moment so far? Are there any personal milestones that you are proud of?
Recently it has been amazing to see women I admire when they wear Chelsea Paris. From Zendaya (wearing the brand for an InStyle editorial) to Kerry Washington, including my boots on Instagram and other incredible creatives like Tamu McPherson, Ebonee Davis and Cipriana Quann wearing and supporting. I'm excited to see what next year will bring for the brand.
If you could only buy one item from your line, which would it be and why?
My favorite piece from the current collection is BO in Royal Python Snake Print. I really love mixing prints. When I feel quirky and fun, I combine the BO with a monochrome or grayscale print. While running errands (with a mask of course!), I wear them with jeans and an oversized white button.
What's next for your brand? Any dream collaborations or retail expansions in the works?
At some point I would like to expand Chelsea Paris to include the categories of bridal shoes and bags, and I am certainly also considering some future collaborations.
Your End Systemic Racism bag had a pretty viral moment last summer. How was that moment for you What prompted the decision to phase out the ESR bag and what's next for the brand?
To be honest, I did not expect the answer that the ESR received! Not many people know, but the bag caused a lot of buzz the first month I dropped it before it went viral from Kim's post. That being said, now is the perfect time for me to show that my art goes beyond the ESR. I have so many ideas for the next few seasons that I know people will love them. From glasses to candles to outerwear … you'll always want to keep up to date.
How do you think the call to action for diversity can be fulfilled? What would true inclusivity look like in your eyes?
True inclusivity puts black and brown people in situations where they can make decisions for the company. If this does not happen, no change is made.
Much of the cultural zeitgeist – from style to beauty to slang – comes from the Black Community. What do you think of appreciating appropriation?
Appreciation is just that, when you go to the Met or MoMa, you can appreciate the art. You don't take art home with you, and so does black culture. You can cheer and love black creators from afar instead of taking them home and embodying them. It becomes appropriation when you take it and claim it as your own. My work does not address Euro-centric ideals or standards. I know it is already talking to the girl who has been ignored for all these years. At Brandon Blackwood NY we celebrate, uplift, and love diversity, black culture, Asian culture, Hispanic culture. We live among these people, we work among these people, we love these people. We will never bow to Eurocentric ideals when we are there and represent those around us.
If you could only buy one item from your line, which would it be and why?
It's a tough choice! I really fell in love with the Kuei bag. Regardless of color, skin or pattern, it is a timeless statement.
What was your biggest "I did it" moment so far? Are there any personal milestones that you are proud of?
After the CFDA and CR fashion book was featured twice in Forbes within 4 months, a dream came true!
What advice would you give to an aspiring black creative looking to get into the fashion industry, especially potential designers?
When I first started, I made a variety of bad mistakes, and it all boiled down to not knowing my worth. Even if you're just starting your brand and only have 200 followers, stick with what you think your job is worth and don't feel influenced by others to change them or cut your numbers … regardless who these people are or what experience they have. To ensure that you stay true to your own identity no matter what. When you express your true self in your work, your brand will always stand out.
Style and beauty can be an instrument of survival for the Black Community. What role do you think fashion has played in your life?
Style and beauty are tools of survival for blacks. For me personally, they were a coping mechanism for bullying in my younger years. At some point, fashion and style became an escape and later a means of creating my own reality.
Much of the cultural zeitgeist – from style to beauty to slang – comes from the Black Community. What do you think of appreciating appropriation?
Black people should get their flowers instead of just copying and disenfranchising them. It starts with realizing that black culture affects the entire fashion industry. Then give more creative options to those who start the trends we see every day.
Fashion and beauty are their own forms of storytelling – the entire industry has long been telling stories that focus on white and Eurocentric beauty traits. What story do you hope for from your work?
I've always shown diversity by involving my friends and local creatives in my campaigns. I hope that I can continue to show that there is no such thing as “ideal” beauty. Everyone's experiences will be very different and there isn't really any general advice I can give other than be authentic who you are, put yourself there and expect to work hard before you see a result. Although 2020 was a profound year for my career, I haven't had that moment. My proudest moments were completing my first collection in 2019 and telling the teacher who taught me to sew that my work was in Vogue magazine. I only do one-time or limited runs. But one of my favorite pieces is the paisley long-sleeved mini dress with a pointed collar. I only made two of these in different fabrics. It's so flattering and makes me feel like I'm in a painting by Czene Béla.
Do you want more? Read our interview with Wisdom Kaye, the star, model and fashion boy from TikTok.
